Posts Tagged ‘tree and shrub specialists’

When Should I Have My Trees & Shrubs Pruned?

Friday, December 2nd, 2011

When Should You Prune Your Trees?

When is the ideal time for pruning? After a rainy year like we just experienced your trees may be wild and overgrown.Pruning should be done to remove any dead, broken, injured, diseased, or insect infested branches or to prune out branches that are too large, low or overhanging or have become a hazard.

You should also prune when the weather is dry so disease doesn’t get in the wounds. Don’t prune when it is very hot or during drought conditions either as this could stress the tree or shrub.

Spring Flowering Trees & Shrubs

Pruning plants whose flowering time is before June 1st is best right after blooming to promote flowers for next year. Some examples include: crabapple, deutzia, forsythia, lilac, redbud, serviceberry, rhododendron, viburnum and weigela.

Summer Flowering Trees & Shrubs


Plants that flower after June 1st can be pruned at anytime, except in the heat of the summer when insects are active. Twiggy shrubs such as potentilla and spirea also benefit from a good trimming first thing in the spring. They will bounce back looking fresh and full. These plants may also be lightly trimmed after each flush of bloom to promote re-bloom.

Evergreens

After new growth and around late June is a good time for evergreens. You should have 50-90% of the new growth trimmed back, being careful to avoid cutting back into older wood. Prune every year to encourage tighter, more compact growth. Allow some new growth to remain every year. Evergreens shouldn’t be pruned in late summer or fall as late new growth will be prone to winter burn.

Trees

Many trees are best pruned in winter when they’re dormant. If certain species of trees are pruned early in the spring, they will “bleed,” stressing the tree and causing health problems. Maples and birches will “bleed” or lose sap from pruning cuts made early in the spring. This does not hurt the tree, and the loss of sap is inconsequential. With a few exceptions, most routine pruning can be done any time of year. The worst time is just as the tree has leafed out in the spring. Wait until the leaves are dark green in summer. The best time is when the tree is dormant.

Newly Planted Trees

Limit pruning at the time of planting to structural training and the removal of damaged branches as they need their crown to produce food and plant hormones that induce root growth.

Contact Wood Acres Tree Specialists for more information on the proper time to have your trees pruned. Wood Acres is staffed with certified arborists, We have been caring for trees and pruning them correctly to promote tree health in Maryland and Washington, DC since 1983. For beautifully healthy trees: Wood Acres Tree Specialists.

Caring for Mature Trees

Tuesday, November 1st, 2011

Caring for mature trees is an investment

Investing in the health of your mature trees brings many benefits to you and your property.

A well-maintained tree:

  • increases in value with age
  • increases property values
  • beautifies our environment
  • purifies the air
  • saves you energy (provides cooling shade in the summer and protection from winter’s winds)

A preventive care program for your landscape plants is like a savings plan. Regular maintenance, designed to promote plant health and vigor, ensures their value will continue to grow and is much less costly and time-consuming than curing one once it has developed problems. A good maintenance program includes regular inspections and the necessary follow-up care of mulching, fertilizing, and pruning, & can detect problems and correct them before they become damaging or fatal. Many tree species can live centuries –  as long as 200 to 300 years, so including these practices when caring for your home landscape is an investment that will offer enjoyment and value for generations.

Mature Tree Inspection

You should have regular inspections of mature trees at least once a year. Look for four characteristics that represent tree vigor:

  • new leaves or buds
  • leaf size
  • twig growth
  • absence of crown dieback

Any abnormalities found during these inspections, including insect activity and spotted, deformed, discolored, or dead leaves and twigs, should be noted and watched closely. If you are uncertain as to what should be done, report your findings to Wood Acres Tree Specialists, certified Arborists.

Mulching Mature Trees

Mulching reduces environmental stress by providing trees with a stable root environment that is cooler and maintains moisture longer. Mulch can also prevent mechanical damage by keeping machines such as lawn mowers and string trimmers away from the tree’s base which can wound it and expose it to insects & disease. Mulch also reduces competition from surrounding weeds and turf.

Place mulch 2 to 4 inches deep and cover the entire root system, which may be as far as 2 or 3 times the diameter of the branch spread of the tree. If the area and activities happening around the tree do not permit the entire area to be mulched, it is recommended that you mulch as much of the area under the drip line of the tree as possible. When placing mulch, do not cover the actual trunk of the tree. This mulch-free area, 1 to 2 inches wide at the base, is sufficient to avoid moist bark conditions and prevent trunk decay.

An organic mulch layer 2 to 4 inches deep of loosely packed shredded leaves, pine straw, peat moss, or composted wood chips is adequate. Thicker mulch depths or plastic should not be used because it interferes with the exchange of gases between soil and air, which inhibits root growth.

Fertilization of Mature Trees

Fertilization is another important aspect of mature tree care. Trees require certain nutrients to function and grow -especially in urban landscapes. If fertilizer is not applied wisely, it may not benefit the tree at all and may even adversely affect the tree. When considering fertilizer, it is important to know which nutrients are needed and when and how they should be applied which is a fairly complex process because conditions vary greatly in soil and environment.

Wood Acres Tree Specialists can arrange to have your soil tested at a soil testing laboratory and can give advice on application rates, timing, and the best blend of fertilizer for each of your trees and other landscape plants.

Since mature trees have expansive root systems that extend from 2 to 3 times the size of the leaf canopy, a major portion of actively growing roots is located outside the tree’s drip line. Many lawn fertilizers contain weed and feed formulations that may be harmful to your trees. When you apply a broadleaf herbicide to your turf, the same herbicide that kills broadleaf weeds in your lawn is picked up by tree roots and can harm or kill your broadleaf trees if applied incorrectly. Understanding the actual size and extent of a tree’s root system before you fertilize is necessary to determine how much, what type, and where to best apply fertilizer.

Pruning the Mature Tree

Pruning is the most common tree maintenance procedure next to watering. Pruning removes dead, diseased, or insect-infested branches and improves tree structure, enhances vigor, or maintains safety. Because each cut has the potential to change the growth of (or cause damage to) a tree, no branch should be removed without a reason.

Overpruning is extremely harmful because without enough leaves, a tree cannot gather and process enough sunlight to survive. However, after pruning, the growth that does occur takes place on fewer shoots, so they tend to grow longer than they would without pruning. Pruning mature trees usually requires special equipment, training, and experience. If the pruning work requires climbing, the use of a chain or hand saw, or the removal of large limbs, then using personal safety equipment, such as protective eyewear and hearing protection, is a must. Wood Acres Tree Specialists Arborists can provide a variety of services to assist in performing the job safely and reducing risk of personal injury and damage to your property as we are fully insured and highly trained in the safe removal of trees.

The Plant Health Care Maintenance Program

Maintaining mature landscapes is a complicated undertaking but Wood Acres Tree Specialists can simplify this for you. Consider our professional Plant Health Care (PHC) maintenance program for healthier trees and shrubs. The PHC program is designed to maintain plant vigor and includes the Plant Health Care Report & inspection to detect and treat any existing problems that could be damaging or fatal. Thereafter, regular inspections and the right kind of preventive maintenance determined by our tree experts will ensure tree and shrub health and beauty for your valuable property landscape.

 

What Factors Affect The Cost of Tree Removal

Sunday, October 2nd, 2011

proper tree removal is costly

Having a tree removed can be expensive. When you’re a homeowner with trees on your property you should budget in tree care just like any other homeowner expense so you won’t be caught short.

There are many things to consider when Wood Acres Tree Specialists gives an estimate.

  • Minimum cost. Tree companies have a lot of equipment – even for small jobs. For very large jobs specialized equipment must be brought in to the job site.
  • The bigger the tree, the more expensive the removal. Removing a large tree is more complicated, large oaks can weigh 30-50 tons, and clean-up can be extensive. If your tree removal requires a crane that adds to the cost.
  • Tree stability. A tree that is failing can post a hazard to the property and crew and this must be considered in the estimate. The longer you wait when you notice a problem with a tree, the more it can cost to remove.
  • Tree location. If the tree is on a hill, near power lines, near structures, tangled within other trees limbs, or right next to the street where traffic passes this could take longer than an uncomplicated tree removal.
  • Reputation of Arborist. Wood Acres is licensed, insured, equipped with the latest heavy machinery, and is extremely experienced. This adds up to extra insurance for you that the job will be done correctly and safely with minimal percussions.
  • Stump removal. This is always an extra service as it requires different equipment and it also gives the homeowner an opportunity to save some money to not have it done if it’s not in a prominent area.
  • Clean up. The degree that Wood Acres cleans up the debris after the job is also included in the estimate.
If you’re planning on moving into a house, have Wood Acres check the trees before you move in and this could save you money. If it’s your problem tree, don’t wait. Disaster is more expensive and time-consuming than tree removal.

Extreme Wet Weather – Get Your Trees Assessed

Friday, September 9th, 2011

 

Don't Procrastinate on Tree Assessment

The extreme soaking, wet weather this season has created problems with trees falling because their roots won’t hold in the saturated ground. The ground gets soft, trees lean, take up too much moisture to the crown – and topple.

Those falling trees come crashing down on roadways, houses, yards and power lines costing time and money that could have been avoided with a Tree Report. Wood Acres crews have been busy cleaning up the aftermath of trees suffering from too much water, wind or both.

Trees add to our enjoyment of the outdoors, improve the air we breathe and contribute to the value of our properties. However, trees also have liabilities associated with them. The key to reducing those liabilities is to recognize when a tree becomes hazardous and take the appropriate steps to correct or eliminate the hazard.

Our Certified Arborists provide a Tree Structure Evaluation/Risk Assessment Report. This report provides the following information: tree species, size, species failure profile, evaluation of location and site of tree, visual tree analysis, wood rot-decay analysis, risk rating, interpretation of evaluation and remedial treatments.

Don’t wait. Contact Wood Acres Tree Specialists – arborists that are fully licensed, insured and certified to take care of your trees.

 

Fallen Tree Limbs in your Yard

Thursday, August 11th, 2011

When you find downed tree limbs

You’re taking a stroll around your yard and you notice a big tree limb in the the back yard that wasn’t there a couple days ago. A look around the neighborhood tells the tale: the latest storm brought down several tree limbs of all sizes. Why do some tree limbs just bend with the wind and weather when others break? What about the big limb overhanging your house right now?

Weak Branch Unions

Branch unions are categorized as either strong or weak. Strong branch unions have upturned branch bark ridges at branch junctions. Annual rings of wood from the branch grow together with annual rings of wood from the stem, creating a sound, strong union all the way into the center of the tree.

A weak branch union occurs when a branch and stem (or two or more co-dominant stems) grow so closely together that bark grows between them, inside the tree. The term for bark growing inside the tree is “included bark.” The more bark included in the tree, the weaker the union and greater chance that it will fail.

In storm damage surveys conducted by the University of Minnesota’s Forest Resources Department, 21 percent of all landscape trees that failed in windstorms failed at weak branch unions of co-dominant stems. Some species are susceptible to having included bark: European mountain ash, green ash, hackberry, boxelder, willow, red maple, silver maple, Amur maple, cherry and littleleaf linden.

Epicormic Branches

Epicormic branches (also called sucker branches or water sprouts) are formed as a result of bad pruning, injury or environmental stress. They are shallowly attached instead of attached to the center of the stem. Epicormic branches are new branches that replaced injured, pruned or declining branches. You can see epicormic branches formed on the stems and branches of topped trees. Sprouting is common with borer damage. Look for D-shaped holes higher up on the tree. They do not appear along the lower trunk until the tree is nearly dead.When old, large and heavy epicormic branches are growing on decaying stems or branches, the epicormics are very likely to fail.

Weak unions that are also cracked, cankered or decayed are even likely to fail – more limbs in the yard.

Safety First

For safety’s sake, don’t try to inspect that lofty limb yourself. The tree business is very dangerous and experts, like Wood Acres Tree Specialists,  should be consulted. We employ stringent safety and performance standards when analyzing your trees’ structure and taking steps to improving their strength and reduce hazard.

Leaning Trees – Are They A Sign of Tree Failure

Thursday, July 7th, 2011

A tree-lined street with majestic branches arching into the open way is a beautiful sight – one of the reasons we love trees. Most of the time they are leaning towards the light because of nature, it’s called phototropism. But, sometimes the tree is leaning because it has a problem, or worse, it is failing and could be at risk in a storm. How can you tell the difference?

A leaning tree can be a distress signal that it has an inadequate root system or it could have a structural weakness.

Here’s what to look for in a leaning tree:

  • a tree with an excessive lean
  • roots that look like they’ve recently pushed the dirt up around the base or cracks in the dirt
  • horizontal cracks on the tension side and bark buckling on the lower side
  • a crack through the middle of the stem
  • crack, canker, or decay on the lower stem
  • tree with girdling roots around 40% or more of the root collar
  • more than ⅓ of the roots decayed or missing

For a thorough, professional evaluation or your leaning tree, contact Wood Acres’ professional arborists. Make sure it keeps its place as an element of beauty in your landscape. We are your source for tree answers and arborist services in Montgomery County, MD and Washington DC.

Tent Caterpillar or Gypsy Moth?

Monday, May 23rd, 2011

Eastern Tent Caterpillars

Eastern tent caterpillars and gypsy moth caterpillars- both are about the same size, hairy, and have bands of black and brown colors with narrow yellow stripes, and blue spots. But -Gypsy moth caterpillars also have red spots and this is a distinct difference between the two.
Gypsy moth caterpillars are not just an unattractive nuisance, but this invasive pest is very harmful to deciduous hardwood trees, like oak. The damage they can do to trees ranges from light to nearly full defoliation. Entire parks have been closed for spraying to try to control their ravenous appetites. Most infected trees will survive a single infestation and defoliation, but continuing damage can weaken a tree and leave it vulnerable to drought, cold, disease or other insects.

The other major difference is in their eating habits: tent caterpillars prefer to feed safely in their tent. Gypsy moths don’t make webbing and eat out in the open.They like to hide on the underside of leaves, branches, or some other inconspicuous part of the tree, or they hide in brush on the ground, and do most of their main feeding in the veil of night so predators don’t pick them off.
Eastern tent caterpillars damage occurs early in the season and their host trees can usually grow more leaves afterwards and rebound.
If you believe you have a serious problem with caterpillars contact Wood Acres Tree Specialists for a consultation with our tree and shrub care division.

Spring Planting: What trees will do well in my yard? 

Friday, April 1st, 2011

Trees for the Maryland Area

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spring is a popular time to plant trees. But many homeowners in Maryland and Washington, DC choose a tree for beauty and don’t consider other property or site considerations.

Ask yourself these questions:

  • Do I want shade? Will I require extra security lighting? Will it effect my neighbor’s landscape?
  • How much light is available for the tree?
  • Do I want to attract wildlife?
  • Will it increase my property value?
  • What’s the mature height and spread? Is there enough space to plant this tree?
  • Is color a main factor? What are the ornamental effects? Fruit, flowers, bark, color in Fall?
  • Is the tree hardy in our area? Can it take our hot summers and cold winters?
  • Is my particular yard’s environment right? Soil pH, drainage, utility locations above and below the ground (don’t plant trees over 25′ under utility lines – there should be 10′ clearance to reduce electrical hazards).
  • Does my community or municipality have any restrictions as to planting?
  • Will there be a lot of maintenance with the tree species? Leaves in Fall, pruning, susceptibility to storms, disease, insects?

If you require professional analysis of your trees and lot contact Wood Acres‘ arborists to make sure your new trees have a long, healthy life and you get the most enjoyment from your choice. We offer full-maintenance tree and shrub programs to keep them thriving year after year.

Below is a list recommended trees by the State of Maryland that do well in our area:

SMALL TREES

CRABAPPLE SPP. (Malus spp.)Height: 15′-35′, Spread: 10′-25′. Small flowering trees valued for wildlife food and shelter. Produces a small fruit the size of a marble. Can be used in many types of landscape settings as they tolerate urban conditions well.

DOGWOOD, ALTERNATE-LEAF/PAGODA (Cornus alternifolia)Height: 12’-15’, Spread: 10’-12’. Pagoda Dogwood is an excellent small tree or large shrub that can be grown either as a single or multi-trunked specimen. General crown form is oval to round but it has a unique horizontally layered branching structure which accounts for its common name. It has flat clusters of small white flowers in spring. Fruit are small blue-black berries that are readily eaten by birds. The fall foliage color is a deep burgundy. Does well in either full sun or shade. Does not tolerate hot dry sites.

DOGWOOD, AMERICAN FLOWERING (Cornus florida)Height: 20′, Spread: 15′-20′. Small tree with flat topped crown. Place in well drained soil. Full sun to partial shade. Has character in all four seasons. Excellent as specimen tree or used on the corner of a house. Bright red berries are an important food source for songbirds including evening grosbeak, cardinals, robins and cedar waxwings.

FRINGETREE, WHITE (Chionanthus virginicus)Height: 12′-20′, Spread: same. Slowing-growing tree that prefers moist, fertile soils and full sun. Excellent specimen tree or in groups, borders or near large buildings. Limited wildlife value.

HAWTHORN, WASHINGTON (Crataegus phaenopyrum)Height: 25′-30′, Spread: 20′-25′. Broadly rounded to oval, dense, thorny tree. Plant in well drained soil in full sun. Excellent specimen tree or for borders and hedges. Tolerates severe urban stresses. Has attractive flowers, fruits, and foliage. Should not be used in high traffic areas. Dense thorns make excellent nesting sites for songbirds. Fruit is used by grouse.

HAWTHORN, GREEN (Crataegus viridis)Height 20’-35’ Spread: same. Rounded crown. Sharply thorny. Flowers are white and fall foliage a purple to scarlet color. The fruit is bright red and persistent into winter.

HOLLY, AMERICAN (Ilex opaca)Height: 15′-30′, Spread: 18′-25′. Dense, pyramidal in youth, opening up with age. Plant in moist, well drained soil. Full sun or partial shade. Use one male for every three females. Use as specimen plant or in groupings. Many cultivars. Used extensively by many songbirds including thrushes, mockingbirds, catbirds, bluebirds and thrashers. Foliage provides cover for songbirds and mammals.

HOPHORNBEAM/IRONWOOD (Ostrya virginiana)Height: 30’-50’, Spread: 25’ Hophornbeam has a lovely yellow fall color, and the small nutlets, which ripen in summer and fall, are used by birds and mammals during the winter. Bark is an attractive orange or grayish brown peeling off in longitudinal strips.

MAGNOLIA, SWEETBAY (Magnolia virginiana)Multistemmed, small tree or open shrub. Likes wet, acid soils. Tolerates shade. Used as specimen tree. White to cream colored flowers that have a strong lemon and rose-scented smell. Wildlife value is low. Seeds are eaten by some mammals and birds. Foliage is used by several birds for nest building.PAWPAW (Asimina triloba)A shrub or small tree that tolerates shade, pawpaw produces a fruit that is readily eaten by wildlife. Flowers open greenish-brown and become deep red.

REDBUD, EASTERN (Cercis canadensis)Height: 20′-30′, Spread: 25′-30′. Small tree with rounded crown, pink to purplish flowers in early spring. Heart-shaped leaves are reddish at emergence, become dark green, then yellow in the fall. Likes moist, well drained soils. Full sun to light shade. Can be used as a street, yard, or border tree. Requires little pruning after lower branches have been removed for clearance. Limited wildlife value.

SERVICEBERRY or SHADBLOW (Amelanchier canadensis)Height: 6′-20′, Spread: 10′-15′. Erect stems, often clumped. These small trees have attractive bark, flowers, and fruit. White flower. Beautiful orange to red autumn color. Requires little or no maintenance. Important berry producer during the early summer months. Blue-black fruit is eaten by bluebirds, cardinals, and tanagers. Foliage is used by browsers.

SERVICEBERRY, ALLEGHENY (Amelanchier laevis)Height: 30’-40’, Spread: 15’-20’. Multiple stems are upright and highly branched forming a dense shrub, or if properly pruned a small tree. The tree is short-lived, has a rapid growth rate, and can be used as a filler plant or to attract birds. The main ornamental feature is the white flowers borne in drooping clusters in mid spring. The purplish black berries are sweet and juicy but are soon eaten by birds. The fall color is yellow to red. It is well adapted for planting beneath power lines due to its small size.

SERVICEBERRY, DOWNY (Amelanchier arborea)Height 15’-25’ Spread: up to 35’ Typically multi-stemmed. A beautiful orange leaf in the fall. Flowers white and in upright clusters. Fruit is preferred by birds. Fruit is sweet and edible.

LARGE TREES

BALDCYPRESS, COMMON (Taxodium distichum)Height 50′-70′, spread 20′-30′. This lofty, deciduous (loses its leaves in the fall) conifer (small round cones at the end of twigs) is very tolerant to typical urban conditions as well as wet areas. Its slender pyramidal form, beautiful leaf texture, attractive bark and fast growing habit make this a worthwhile tree to plant. Bright green spring leaves ½” – ¾” turn soft sage green in summer, and pale orange in autumn before dropping. “Cypress knees” occur only in or near water.

BEECH, AMERICAN (Fagus grandifolia)Height: 50′-100′, Spread: 50′-70′. Often has short trunk with wide spreading crown. Likes moist, well drained soils. Does best in full sun, but tolerates shade. Should be restricted to large area use for parks and estates. Beechnuts are eaten by birds and mammals and are important food for chipmunks and squirrels.

BIRCH, RIVER (Betula nigra)Height: 40′-70′, Spread: 40′-60′. Pyramidal in youth and rounded with age. Often grown multistemmed. Best adapted to moist soils. Handsome tree used as specimen in parks and lawns. Catkins are used by redpolls and pine siskins. Foliage is used by browsers.ELM, AMERICAN (Ulmus Americana)Height 60′-80′, spread 50′-80′. This large, graceful, spreading, medium to fast growing tree can reach to a height of 80 feet. It is well suited to lawns and urban landscapes. It prefers deep, rich soils, but grows well in a variety of conditions and is pH and salt tolerant.

HACKBERRY (Celtis occidentalis)Height: 40′-60′, Spread same. In youth weakly pyramidal; in old age the crown is a broad top of ascending, arching branches. Medium to fast growth. Prefers rich, moist soils, but grows in dry, heavy or sandy, rocky soils; withstands acid or alkaline conditions; moderately wet or very dry areas; tolerates wind; full sun; withstands dirt and grime of cities. Fruit is fleshy, orange to dark purple, ripening in September to October. Leaves are yellow to yellow-green in fall. Good tree for park or large area use. Useful tree for adverse growing conditions. Fruit is popular with winter birds, especially the cedar waxwing, mockingbird, and robin.

HEMLOCK, EASTERN (Tsuga canadensis)Height: 40′-70′, Spread: 25′-35′. Pyramidal in youth, becoming more pendulous with age. Likes moist, well-drained soils. Plant in sheltered area. Tolerates shade. Relatively fast growing. Excellent for screens, hedges, accent plant and foundation plantings. Provides excellent cover for deer and songbirds. Nesting site for several warblers. Seeds are eaten by juncos, chickadees, and siskins.

HONEYLOCUST (Gleditsia triacanthos)height: 30′-70′, Spread: same. Usually has short trunk with open, oval crown. Transplants readily. Fast grower. Withstands a wide range of conditions but prefers rich, moist soil. Excellent lawn tree under filtered shade. Tolerates salt, heat, drought, compaction, and other adverse urban conditions. Limited wildlife value.

LINDEN, AMERICAN (Tilia americana)Height: 50′-70′, Spread: 35′-50′. A fine shade tree for streets, parking lots, and large lawns. Prefers moist, fertile soil but will tolerate drier sites, Transplants readily.

LOCUST, BLACK (Robinia pseudoacacia)Height: 50’-80’, Spread: 20’-35’ The upright growth and short, irregular branches form an open canopy and cast light shade below the tree, allowing a lawn to thrive. The leaves are some of the last to appear in spring and often drop early in the autumn. In late spring for a short time the trees have long, dense clusters of extremely fragrant, one-inch white blossoms which are literally “alive” with the bustling activity of visiting bees. The honey which is produced is quite delicious. The dark red to black, leathery seeds pods which follow will persist on the trees throughout the winter.

MAGNOLIA, SOUTHERN (Magnolia grandiflora)Height: 60’ – 80’., Spread: 30’ – 50’. Can be a very large, handsome, yard tree. Needs plenty of room to grow. Leaves are leathery and dark green above. Flowers are creamy white and have a pleasant fragrance. Seeds grow in a “cone” and are a beautiful red.

MAPLE, RED (Acer rubrum)Height: 40′-60′, Spread: same. Medium to fast grower. Excellent tree as specimen for lawn and park settings. Excellent fall color. Good shade tree. Buds, flowers and leaves provide food for many birds and mammals. Chipmunks and squirrels eat seeds and some songbirds use stalks for nest building.

MAPLE, SUGAR (Acer saccharum)Height 60′-70′, spread usually 2/3 the height. Leaf color is medium to dark green in summer changing to brilliant yellow, burnt orange and red tones in autumn. It grows best in well-drained moderately moist, fertile soil. It does not grow well in tight, compacted situations such as in very small lawns or other conditions that restrict root growth. It tolerates shade but does not tolerate air pollution and is susceptible to damage from road salt.

OAK, CHESTNUT (Quercus prinus)Chestnut oak commonly reaches 60 to 80 feet at maturity and grows better on dry and poor sites than other oaks. Acorn is a favorite food of deer, turkey and squirrels.

OAK, NORTHERN RED (Quercus rubra)Height: 60′-80′, Spread: 45′-65′. Habit is round-topped and symmetrical. Full sun. Prefers loamy, well drained soils. Fast growing tree for lawns, parks and estates. Acorns are at the top of the food preference list for wood ducks, pheasants, grackles, jays, nuthatches, thrushes, woodpeckers, rabbits, foxes, squirrels and deer.

OAK, PIN (Quercus palustris)Height: 60′-70′, Spread: 25′-40′. Strongly pyramidal with ascending branches. One of the faster growing oaks. Full sun. Tolerates wet soils but is adaptable to many soils types. Most widely used oak for landscaping. Used on lawns, parks, golf courses and around commercial buildings. Acorns are at the top of the food preference list for wood ducks, pheasants, grackles, jays, nuthatches, thrushes, woodpeckers, rabbits, foxes, squirrels and deer.

OAK, SWAMP WHITE (Quercus bicolor)Height: 60′-80′, Spread: 50′-80′. Swamp white oak tolerates salt, drought and soil compaction in urban environments. It is transplanted more readily than most other white oaks. The acorns are eaten by a wide variety of wildlife.

OAK, WHITE (Quercus alba)Height: 80′-100′, Spread; 50′-80′. Classic oak form with strong branches. Pyramidal in youth, becoming broad and rounded with wide spreading branches. Transplant as small tree. Prefers moist, well drained soils. Difficult to obtain from nurseries. Sometimes available as seedling. Worthwhile tree for large areas. Acorns are at the top of the food preference list for wood ducks, pheasants, grackles, jays, nuthatches, thrushes, woodpeckers, rabbits, foxes, squirrels and deer.

OAK, WILLOW (Quercus phellos)Height: 50′-100′, Spread 30′-70′. Fast growing oak with willow-like foliage. Transplants more successfully than most oaks, and becomes established quickly. Good shade tree. Full sun or semi-shade. Easily grown in wet soils. Acorns are at the top of the food preference list for wood ducks, pheasants, grackles, jays, nuthatches, thrushes, woodpeckers, rabbits, foxes, squirrels and deer.PERSIMMON (Diospyros virginiana)Height: 20′-60′, Spread: 50′-80′. Produces fruit that is a valued wildlife food.

PINE, EASTERN WHITE (Pinus strobus)Height: 50′-80′+, Spread: 20′-40′. Pyramidal in youth, crown at maturity has several horizontal and ascending branches. Fast grower. Grows best on fertile, well-drained soils, but is very adaptable. A very handsome and ornamental specimen, valuable for lawns, parks, and estates. Provides valuable cover and nesting sites for songbirds and mammals. Needles are used as nesting material. Seeds are eaten by quail, chickadees, grosbeaks, nuthatches and woodpeckers.

PINE, LOBLOLLY (Pinus taeda)Height: 80′-100′, Spread: 25′-35′. Usually has a tall straight trunk free of branches on lower portions of the tree. Often are used as shade trees and for wind and noise barriers.PINE, VIRGINIA (Pinus virginiana)Height: 50′-80′, Spread: 25′-35′. Grows in thick stands on dry and sterile soils. Often are used as shade trees and for wind and noise barriers.

POPLAR, TULIP (Liriodendron tulipifera)Height: 70′-120′, Spread: 30′-50′. Long, straight trunk with a narrow canopy. Fast grower. Plant in full sun and a well drained loam. Use in large areas. Can be used where a very large tree is desired, such as a broad boulevard, wide tree lawns near tall buildings, or in parks. Moderate wildlife importance. The purple finch and cardinal are principal users.

REDCEDAR, EASTERN (Juniperus virginiana)Height: 40′-50′, Spread: 8′-20′. Medium rate of growth. Tolerant of adverse conditions. Prefers deep, moist soils. Will tolerate shade only in youth. Handsome reddish brown bark. Produces small cones. Good ornamental that is also useful for windbreaks, shelter belts, hedges and topiary work. Twigs and foliage are eaten by browsers. Seeds are eaten most extensively by cedar waxwings. Evergreen foliage provides nesting and roosting cover for sparrows, robins, mockingbirds, juncos, and warblers.

SOURWOOD (Oxydendrom arboretum)Height 25’-30’ with pyramidal shape when young, drooping branches covered with fragrant white flowers resembling lily-of-the-valley in late spring. Also knows as sorrel tree and lily of the valley tree. Prefers moist, well-drained, acid soil in full sun to part shade, but is adaptable. Interesting bark, glossy green leaves turning vibrant red in fall. Wildlife value for honeybees and songbirds.

SWEETGUM, AMERICAN (Liquidambar styraciflua)Height: 60′-80′, Spread: 2/3 height. Pyramidal in youth, rounded crown at maturity. Likes deep, moist, acid soils. Occurs naturally on bottomlands. Excellent for lawn or park area. Gumballs can be a problem in lawn settings. Goldfinches and purple finches eat winged seeds.SYCAMORE (Platanus occidentalis)Height: 80′-130′, Spread: 50′-80′. Sycamore is used for watershed protection since it can be planted on wet sites.

TUPELO or GUM, BLACK (Nyssa sylvatica)Height: 30′-70′, Spread: 30′-45′. Pyramidal in youth and irregularly crowned at maturity. Prefers moist, well drained, acid soils. Full sun or semi-shade. Deep taproot. Spectacular fall colors make it a fine choice as a street tree in residential areas. Tolerates seacoast conditions. Fruit is relished by many songbirds. Users include wood ducks, robins, woodpeckers, thrashers, flickers, and mockingbirds.

WALNUT, BLACK (Juglans nigra)Height: 50′-75′, Spread: same. Well formed trunk with oval crown. Prefers rich, moist soils. Difficult to transplant so should be started as a seedling. Roots produce toxins which are poisonous to many plants so do not plant near fruit trees or gardens. Nuts are eaten by woodpeckers, foxes, and squirrels.

Tree & Forest Pests – The Invisible Alien Invaders

Saturday, March 5th, 2011

Before you know it your beautiful century-old tree that defined your entire property could be gone. How could it happen right under your nose?:  Invasive species. The nation’s forests and trees are at risk from these silent invaders from “out of town”. These tiny bugs cost the US economy $120 billion annually.

Invasive species are bugs, borers, and beetles that come into the U.S. by way of package, shipping materials, plane, vegetable, flower – or any other carrier that passes from one country to another. They enter, too tiny or deeply burrowed to notice, find a species of tree that they like, flourish, establish a population – and have no natural predators. They are almost impossible to eradicate once they’ve reached that level.

Some insects that are on the invasive species list currently:

Want to help? Visit Wood Acres Tree Specialists’ Insect Index and educate yourself  about damaging insects. You’ll learn a lot and with your newly acquired awareness perhaps save a tree – or entire forest -  before the damage has been done.

Preventing Snow Damage to Multi-Leader Trees & Shrubs

Saturday, January 8th, 2011

Winter Weight on Trees and Shrub

With the cold, snowy weather upon us in Maryland and Washington, DC, Wood Acres starts receiving calls from customers concerned about splitting or fallen trees. (Memories of the 2010 Snowmageddon are still fresh) Some species are definitely more susceptible to the added weight of ice and snow more than others.

Previously we discussed the white pine problem – fast-growing trees favored by unknowing homeowners who want quick shade but instead end up with a brittle monster prone to breakage in storms. The white pine often develops weak, v-shaped crotches that easily split apart under heavy participation and high winds.

Besides avoiding fast-growers in the landscape you take care with multiple leader trees and conifers. Multiple leader, upright evergreens, like arborvitae and juniper, and multiple leader or clump trees, such as birch, are most subject to snow and ice damage. Smaller trees need to be wrapped and larger trees with wide-spreading leaders should be cabled.

TIP: You can secure your smaller multiple leader trees with strips of carpet, strong cloth or nylon stockings two-thirds of the way above the weak crotches. You can also connect large Bungee Cords (elastic ropes with hooks on either end) at the hardware (make sure it’s supportive but not too tight). Remove the wrappings during spring to avoid binding new growth and girdling limbs and trunk.

Wood Acres Tree Specialists  provide professional cabling/bracing services to protect your trees and shrubs. To have a healthy, intact landscape next Spring make sure to contact our certified arborists before your weak tree or bush becomes permanently damaged or downed in a winter storm.